obrien.david.j

PM's responded. Pending for @LadAShark response, otherwise It'll go to @Higher Thinking. Thanks for helping re-home this critter.

Actually, it's not a perfect clone, only slight differences. Unions into tanks are threaded<->slip, so didn't need piece C Unions on pump are threadded<->slip, so didn't need piece D Longer drops on to the bottom valves, to get below the horizontal pipes behind them pushed pump deeper between tanks Yes, its a copy.

The past week has been about finishing the mixing station up and running. And last night, IT GOT WET. (not done, but getting there) Plumbing done and Glued. Thanks @SuncrestReef, you'll notice this is your design. Cable track, electrical routing, and RO Tubing is locally routed Apex setup is two PM2's, FMM, and EB832 Left PM2 for Salt tank: Temp & Salinity probes mid FMM: Salt Tank low sensor, RO tank High Sensor, RO tank low sensor, Leak detector for tank basin Right PM2 for RO tank: Temp & future toggle box (why a PM2, because I had a spare) EB832: Mixing Pump, RO Booster Pump, RO Heater, Salt Heater, tank LED backlight && Apex Solenoid for RO Unit (main water feed) And ITs WET. Here's the regime leak test RO container (right) , with garden hose pump Garden hose water into salt tank (left) as a leak test leave salt tank pump running to recirculate Start new RO water into RO container (right) to start the cleaning process. (As of this morning, salt tank is recirculating w/garden hose water and 30 net gallons of RO water w/remnants of garden hose water in fresh tank) before use, need to run clean water through these systems. 2x of dump salt tank, move RO tank with cleaner water into salt tank, refill RO tank with RO water, ... Caveats: RO unit itself is not mounted. (sitting on floor) Electronics are not connected into main Apex system, and thus not programmed (yet) I want a wider cable track. current is 2" wide, just ordered 4". Can notch and hide all of apex connections. Thus will be replacing existing track. Will re-run RO tubing at the same time. 1. Plumbing done and Glued. Thanks @SuncrestReef, you'll notice this is your design. 2. Cable track, electrical routing, and RO Tubing is locally routed 3. Cable track, electrical routing, and RO Tubing is locally routed 4. And ITs WET. (Left/Salt side is ~65 gallons of garden hose water, recirculating) (Right/Fresh side is ~30 gallons of first batch of RO water)

Got this urchin cheap when a fellow reefer shut down their tank. It's been roaming around my frag tank, but it's time to go. Its been relatively well behaved GONE Free to anyone willing to pick up. Located on westside of pdx, just north of hwy 26 near 217 interchange. Lid under the urchin is from home depot container of zipties. So urchin is smaller than a racket ball.

Big bucks, Charge BIG bucks - Quick!

I like it! it's not for me, but I like it.

First, just to be clear - I don't have a Red Sea. But I've read many people talk about cracking the bulk head ring. And followed the links directly Fishtanksdirect.com -> Fish tanks -> by Brand -> Red Sea -> Replacement Parts -> Reefer 350 Scroll Scroll Scroll -> Red Sea replacement bulkhead ring https://www.fishtanksdirect.com/red-sea-replacement-bulkhead-ring.aspx (Yes, it says they're out of stock) For those who've cracked these... I assume it's the plastic bulkhead ring, not the O-Ring seal, that cracks.

Great System. And I'll be the price of Plastic Sneeze Guards has gone up. I saw costco installing them last week. (broke the frame of my glasses. THAT was a pain to convince costco to bend their rules and let the optometry department place a rush order on frames. But they were Great and did a Next Day order.)

If you've waited this long, may be worth to wait a little longer... And order TWO replacement rings and wait until they arrive before trying to tighten. That way you have new ones in case you crack one (or two) trying to tighten. Just a thought.

That's a pretty nice offer. Well done.

I don't know if I could move to a house that didn't have fast-n-stable internet connection. I think that'd be a deal breaker for me.

Triple Pump module is complete and glued. As a reminder, left pump is feed to main tank, right pump is feed to frag tanks, and middle pump is pre-plumbed spare. Unplug a malfunctioning pump, flip five ball valves, Plug in the spare - you're back up and running. Also enables routine maintenance on either main pump, without flow disruption.

Working from home, all week. End of the day, ears hurt from headphones and I need a stretch. Flip Side, after a walk in the evening - it's back to the garage and another phase of the plumbing and fish room remodel.

Darn Fine Print. Sorry. $1 per gallon Choose from 10G, 20G, 20L & 29G Aqueon Open-glass Aquariums

I think Petco is having their $1/gallon sale again right now. In case you need to buy one.

Frag Tank Dry Fit plumbing is Done. Holding off gluing until taken apart and touch up painting of stand and walls complete. Followed original plans, with two main modifications. Return line height change (earlier post) Swapped location of isolation sump Right frag tank is now capable of being quarantine or isolated by itself. Next is the triple pump complex. Then a pause to go finish the mixing station plumbing. Good thing I waited, will adjust slightly to accommodate frag tank return&feed lines. Pano of the plumbing setup, and door view of the room.

I originally ran ARM course, switched to Reborn. I like the Reborn better.

And check my Unofficial March 1st photo, posted to club meeting thread. March 1st

OBrien Acan-A, Check-in: March 27 Frag info: -Acan-A, looks like Runt of litter. Two small heads, still on original plug Tank & Placement: Acan in ~middle of 10gal shorty frag tank. 24" x 17" x 8" tall. Connected to 120 gal main tank, with 20gal in sump Lights: Single XR30 pro G4, approx 12" over tank. 60% intensity, Ramp up / down over 12hr period per day Flow: two MP40's, mounted on back wall, opposite side of tank. 30% max flow. with 15% constant flow from midnight to 7am System Equipment: Calcium Reactor, plus all makeup water is Kalk. Chiller & Heaters, Apex controlled. Reef Octopus Elite 200-INT skimmer Feeding/Additives: Target feeding with Benipets and micropellets 1-3 times/week. Two cubes frozen brine shrimp / day for fish (two tangs & one foxface). Brightwell Amino 1x/week. Parameters: Temp 77, Salinity 37ppt, pH ~8.1, Alk ~10, Ca ~500, Mg ~1400

I like this idea, feels like the simplest and most likely to succeed. Just PUSH 1 gallon a day of fresh salt water into the tank and let the excess simply overflow. Salinity movements would be small and gradual.

Return Lines are in. (dry fit) Okay, not completely. Still need to cut and install Tee&Valve to the isolation sump. Main goal was to get Clic Connectors mounted to establish gradual gravity slope from frag tanks back to the main sump. Especially plumbing runs a giant U around the room. It was easier to do this with long/straight pipe runs. One note, waited to glue mixing station plumbing until after the return line was in place. As expected, need to extend them (orange and blue fittings) out slightly.

Anyone have experience with Coral Snow? (as referenced in the R2R thread)

Back to the fish room remodel. Last update, I flagged a height issue with frag tank plumbing. Return line is all gravity going back to the sump, and needs to be no lower than 21" (in these picts), would rather have this be 22-23", but can live with 21". Original Plan, Straight down and simple. New Design, Jog to the right and support with Clic hangers off new stand support bar. Connection across the stand. (Right side pipe is just a support proposal, needing an end cap) Side note, I love CLIC pipe hangers. Used them for years. (my original purpose was holding florescent light bulbs in a tank hood.) AquaCave has a good selection across all pipe sizes. Picture is of my 2" and 1 1/2" recent purchase. https://www.aquacave.com/aquarium-plumbing/clic-clamp-pipe-hangers.html From my planning notes: #59 2” – main return (long run & Under Stand) -- [need some] #47 1 ½” – Frag drains (hang under frag tank) -- [need some] #40 1 ¼” – don’t know of any need -- [have 12] #32 1” – feeds to frag system (long run) – [have 11] #25 3/4” – don’t know of any need -- [have 1] Picture is my recent order of 2" and 1 1/2". Also bought #12 Pipe Hanger, 1/4" ID 1/2" OD, to see what size they really are. They are NOT 1/4" RO tubing capable. too big.

Frag tanks are fun, I've got a few plans in flight.

Hey John, watch that hair algae growth!