obrien.david.j

Makes them easier to pick up and repatriate back on the island, onto a new frag plug, or into someone elses tank. They're so helpful.

New Sump is complete, and got its first use last night. Temporary water Reservoir. My system has two hard plumbed recirculation loops, each feeding a sea swirl. Right side, and Left side. One of the pumps needs to be relocated, in order to fit the new sump and new pump complex in place. And of course, the pump intake is about 16" below the waterline. Last night was: drain the tank down 18" Unscrew Unions, remove recirc pump. Attach new Union, with new Valve as a stub. Ready for pump relocation refill tank Success. All done in <30minutes. Ready to Drain the Tank (into new sump) Done, Refilling the Tank Had to swap connection to this union, connected to submerged bulk head on back of tank And capped off, ready for future plumbing changes This Recirculation pump needs to be relocated Above the shelf.

Grr. My DT is full of them. Silver Scat is a cool fish, but just doesn't touch them. For yours, have you tried a Fenbendazole treatment yet? If your considering it, my main advise is Nuke Them the First Time. Big Strong Extended dose. Besides shrimp/snails/etc - I really didn't have any lasting bad effects. And didn't loose anything else.

You're about a month early for me. Sorry. (expansion tanks are still dry)

... and don't give me crap about the baby. It's a very bad baby... Great Video!

Custom Toggle Box ordered from Harry's Aquatics for the Mixing Station. All latching switches, no momentary contact switches Toggles are for "Overriding Automated Control" Latching Push button for mixing tank backlight. (as opposed to funky apex programming to make a toggle switch out of momentary contact button) Here's the design. Expected to take a few weeks to make.

It's not the first measurement that matters, It's the LAST! (I was trying to hold the tongs and ruler in the same hand, and cell phone with the other. Oh well.)

Although this thread stalled in February, it's short and read it. Pretty good pictures on making a large plywood tank. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/500g-reef-tank-build-saga-a-guide-on-what-not-to-do.685724/ And another thread about building an 800g plywood tank. A longer thread, but includes build and full year of life. Including what it takes to start populating a tank this big. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/atomics-800g-plywood-in-wall-with-fish-room.545869/ Enjoy

I've got a 24" x 17" x 8" (tall) connected into my system right now, and will be freed up in likely late May. If you don't find a tank, come back to me. You're welcome to it when I'm done. (it's waiting on the two new frag tanks to come on-line, when the fish room remodel is done. - Different thread)

OBrien Acan-A, Check-in: April 26th

OBrien CNC Superman, Check-in: April 26 Frag info: Picked up from CNC today, still on original plug Tank & Placement: High right side frag rack of main tank. Approx 10" below water surface. 48"x24x24"ish. Lights: Triple XR30 pro G3, approx 8" over tank. 60% intensity, Ramp up / down over 12hr period per day Flow: three MP40's, on on back wall opposite side of tank, two on same wall as frag rack. Two hard plumbed Gen-x Mak4 /PCX-40 pumps, to sea swirls rotators. One on each end of tank. System Equipment: Calcium Reactor, plus all makeup water is Kalk. Chiller & Heaters, Apex controlled. Reef Octopus Elite 200-INT skimmer Feeding/Additives: Mediium to heavy daily feeding of LRS frozen food. Brightwell Amino dosed 1.5ml/day. Parameters: Temp 77, Salinity 35ppt, pH ~8.2, Alk ~10, Ca ~500, Mg ~1300 Pictures

Great. PM me with what you find.

Have you found a plastics shop or source for the adhesive this weekend? I'm in need of weld-on 16 and found the plastics supply stores closed this weekend. Strangely, when I went on the Tap Plastics website, their hours were 10am-2pm Wednesday Only. must be covid hours.

I've been running Gen-X PCX-40's (aka mak4) pumps for years. Still running strong. But I'd like some spare parts. (casing, impeller, etc) Anyone got a used (or new) one sitting around they'll part with cheap? Parts are fine. Doesn't need to run, I'll be piecing it out.

Today, a 4 foot tank took another step on it's journey to becoming a 3 foot tank. (sump) used a clamp bar to guide a circular saw, and then a flush cut router to take off the endcap. (to be re-glued as the sump end) used a clamp bar to circular saw off 11", but it's too rough and not straight enough to re-glue the end on Then used PVC pipes to make consistent and crisp height setting for the saw bar, to guide final flush cut router Worked great. Of course, I realized I didn't have enough glue to start that ... Clamp Bar: https://www.lowes.com/pd/BORA-Modular-Clamp-Edge-Guide-50-in-WTX-Bar-Clamp/50092628 A 4 Foot tank, and the sections cut out of it. A future 3 Foot sump, and final setup to guide router for crisp end, ready for gluing

Update on an Apex Push-Button light switch. A. Programming Works B. Super Touchy and not intuitive. Press the button, Count to two, (before anything has happened), Let the button go. Sometimes lights toggle, and stay toggled. Sometimes lights toggle, and then switch back to prior state. This is not a workable long term solution. But had to try. Thought I'd give everyone an update.

I exchanged a 20lb with homebrew two weekends ago. They said Covid has them going through 2x their normal CO2 rate. Just call them, reserve a 20lb exchange, No Problems. (Acknowledged, Not Exactly in Vancouver. - Closer to Hillsboro.)

I like the colors better on in the two light picture. (okay I think its a camera setting thing, looking at the background/non-tank aspects of the photo)

How about a famous @SuncrestReef Single Sliderbar picture, of Before and After?

That was fast help. The easy solution would be to replace the botton with a latching push button switch, which I considered. But I've got the box, got the switch... So I'll try the programming approach first. THANKS! https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Latching+Push+Button+Switch&i=industrial&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Nice solution. looks clean. I'll admit it, I love the look of gsp. I haven't kept them for a Long time, after learning what they can do in a tank. but I still love them. I wonder if I could keep them in a Aux tank (like the size you setup), plumbed into the main water system. Hmm, I better not risk it.

You'll have to explain the picture. It LOOKS like you've plumbed your pump directly into your return line. Hows this work?

Okay, Apex programming question. (inputs from everyone and @SuncrestReef welcome) I've got a break out box with a push button connected to one of the switch inputs. I'd like to use it like an On / Off light switch. Push the button, Outlet on EB832 goes on. Push the button, Outlet on EB832 goes off. Push the button, outlet goes On. (you get the idea) Any idea how to program this?

I've got some pieces you can have. PM'd.

Mixing Station is working well. Both ATO and AWC. Took time last night to organize my the apex components on the already running side of the room, and then today made connections over to mixing station side. New additions: EB832 - running Mixing pump, heaters on RO and Salt water tanks, booster pump for making RO, and RO-Solenoid to turn on raw water feed. FMM - Salt water low sensor, RO water High sensor, RO Low sensor, and There's Been A Leak sensor. PM2 - for Salt tank. Temp and Salinity PM2 - for RO tank. Temp and connection to Harry's break out box of switches. (I had a spare PM2) Cleaned up the room, tidied the garage. And on to starting making a sump. Reminder, bought this used 120gal plexi (24x24x48). Turning it into a 90gal sump without overflow boxes. 24x24x36. Stage one, grind off the overflow boxes. Surprisingly easy, although plexi dust Everywhere. The maker of this Tank could have been named Sherman. This is one well built plexi tank. Before: After: