madmike

Sorry, here is my update. 2 so far, one detatched almost immediately and floated off somewhere

A friend of mine has modded his 360. You can download games off the interweb and burn them to a dual layer DVD and you are good to go. PS I do not condone the piracy of Xbox 360 games....even if Microsoft is a global giant that buys technologies to stifle competition.

tamarin wrasse i believe

Any reason why you placed the pins on the inside of the workpiece (for the two sides)? I have always placed them on the outside and it seems like it would be a pain to try and pull them on the inside and not damage anything on their way out. How long did you wait before pulling the pins?

Mine has been like this for a couple of days now! He is fat and has been in my tank for over 6 months, but just recently he started swimming around with his mouth open wide...huh I wonder what this means?

did I win?

pm me, you can borrow my par meter, I am looking to do LEDs over my next tank and wonder what kind of par these are putting out vs halides. Mike

I've been thinking of doing a DIY led setup, where did you buy the heatsink and LED parts from? Thanks Mike

at $100 a liter, I think alot of people will stick with vodka!

Any voltage?

NP, I get off at 3:30 today, so I should be home by 4pm or so. Mike

Oh, and what test kits are you using for alk? I find that my API kit reads about 1-1.5dkh higher than my lamotte lab kit.

Sorry to hear about the continued losses steve. Sorry about being so quick on the phone yesterday(was in the middle of buying a new truck, lol) So the polyfilter hasn't shown any color change? I think it is just going to take alot of time, water, and carbon changes to get anything out you may have put in over the last 6 months. You did change your lights out also correct? Could be a little shock from the new bulbs (depending upon how bad the old ones were) Just grasping at straws now, I have gone thru the same frustrations and have unfortunately never found the culprit. Mike

I've treated my tank twice with interceptor and my cleaner survived both treatments.

Best and fastest growth will be at the 6500K range, really yellow and not good looking at all! In general, 15K will get better growth than 20K but there are other factors that play into it....some 20K bulb/ballast put out more par than 15K bulbs.

I'll take one of each, when you going to be in portland? Mike

I've got a HM digital com-100, I could test your RO/DI for you. I'm in the hazel dell area. You want your RO/DI checked right? What kind of RO/DI do you have, when was the last filter change? Mike

I disagree with the heat issue. Use orbital sanders with wet sandpaper and you will avoid any heat, then move to a power buffer with slow speed with the novus products.

http://woodworker.com/5-hl-micromesh-disc-1800-grit-mssu-124-988.asp?search=micro%20mesh&searchmode=2 This place sells a kit with all of the micromesh sizes for a 5" or 6" random orbital sander for about $30...I wish I would have found this before hand sanding!

You can use a low speed buffer at like 1000 rpm with a soft pad made for clear coats on cars and use the novus #3 and then #2. "scratches" wont buff out, they need to be sanded out first and then buffed out. If you can feel the scratches with your fingernail, you are in for a long road of sanding, lol. I sanded and buffed a 3/4" thick 220 gallon envision tank that had a TON of scratches. Started at 400, and went all the way thru 8000 before switching to the novus products on a buffer. You can get sheets of 3M wet dry sandpaper from TAP that go to about 2000, you can cut these and use them in an orbital sander, but then you will need to use the micromesh smaller sheets from 2000 up. James from envision told me there are some places that sell the micromesh in full sheets, and if I ever had to do it again, I would shell out for a full sheet of each of the strengths and cut them to fit my orbital sander, sanding by hand can be a PIA! The Rockler woodworking store in Beaverton sells the smaller sheets of micromesh if you don't want to order a kit online. I easily spent 50-100 hours restoring my tank to brand new and I would probably never do it again, lol...but I was a student during the time and didn't have the funds for a brand new tank. Let me know if you need any tips... I sure did gain alot of them during the process... Mike

I think they MAY adjust the params from the original salt but it is definitely made in the same factory. Look at the DD vs the Red sea coral pro buckets... same crappy design

I need about 5-10 bags Mike

Actually, people who first bought the dd salt had red sea leaflets on the inside of their buckets....hmmmmm

me too, I need 5-10 bags. Mike

You should be using calibration fluid at 35ppt, some of the cheaper refractometers can read 0 with distilled water and read off by a couple of points at full salinity. When you get some, calibrate with distilled and check with a 35ppt standard, if it is dead on then you know you can calibrate with Distilled.