pledosophy

Not such which article you read, there have been quite a few of them on various sites. IMO .1ml per gallon is a pretty low place to start. I know you have to increase gradually, but that would be a very slow increase. It won't hurt anything to go that slow (assuming you don't have algae choking out your corals), so it is a safe way to do it, but that would be a very conservative method IMO, and overall I am a pretty conservative reefer about other things. Randy got his tank up to 120ml per day in a 120g system before he noticed any bacterial blooms, there is a member on here who doses her tank 40mL per day in a 75g. IME I find if you pay attention to your tank, you can go a bit faster. Just back off if you get a bacterial bloom. Once you start seeing nuisance algae receeding you are almost at your ending dose level IME. I never cut my dose in half after I reached my desired level either. 12mL for my system is already a pretty low point compared to most tanks. I have never had a bacterial bloom, or a cyano issue, so based on my experience it seems to be working alright. JME

You can set the blues and whites to different times, but you can't do the slow fade in like some of the more expensive units. Being a more old school reefer I've never had that and have always just run a timer for the blue and the whites so, no loss for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like my T247's from Ocean Revive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Working on it. When it appears if you want to help update it, that would be very helpful. I appreciate the help.

Pics or it didn't happen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm down Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No good news there Doug, sad to see you go. Not many have the same level of love for the animals and even fewer have such a generous heart. Thanks for everything over the years. You will be missed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Travis always has the good ish Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is another part of that called anaerobic bacteria. This bacteria lives within the rock. Anerobes generally inhabit places with very low oxygen. It is very slow growing. This is why you see some reefers really covetting live rock, and why sometimes older tanks are a bit more bullet proof on the feeding. Growing this bacteria on it's own in a closed system can take many years. Anaerobic bacteria is what finishes the nitrogen cycle converting nitrate back in to 02 and releasing it from the tank. Macro aglae is also good at taking in phosphate and nitrate. Different algaes consume it at different rates. Some are 20:1, some are even 50:1. Those that keep macro algae display tanks (used to be me) often use either nitrate or phosphate as a limiting factor to control growth. It is possible to have a tank full of macro algae, with a sump full of macro algae and still have a phosphate level of above 1ppm with a nitrate of zero. You can also have a nitrate of 50 with a phosphate of 0 in those tanks. So while macro is good at knocking nutrients down low, and the ecosystem method is something I really played with and believed in for a long time, IME it is not a complete method if you are trying to feed a lot and run a low nutrient system. To accomplish this goal after years of trial and error with other methods, the vodka dosing method seems to be the easiest and work the best for my tank.

What has been your impression of acro power? How much are you dosing for your 210?

I use vodka to reduce the nitrate and phosphate in my system. Since using it I have better growth and color, and I have stopped using GFO. Vodka is actually a much cheaper way to control nitrate and phosphate and there is some talk of GFO breaking down and getting caught in certain fishes gills causing health problems. Dosing vodka is part of the carbon dosing method of thinking. Other ways to carbon dose include vinegar, sugar (which I used to use), and ethanol. Summed up very simply the source of carbon increases the efficiently of the set of bacteria in our system that consume nitrate and phosphate. Some were scared off at first thinking it would increase other bad bacteria populations as well but testing that I have read as well as conversations with some heavy hitters (Dr.Belli, Randy Holmes Farley)states that this is not true. Depending on what you are trying to keep, some sources of carbon can be more appropriate then others. E.G. if you are trying to keep an NPS tank vinegar would be more appropriate then vodka.

I really like the Brightwell products. I use their two part. I switched to it because it contained Mg as well. While I still have to dose Mg every so often I like the consistency that dosing it with 2 part provides. For 2 part I dose 20mL daily. Aquavitro Thrive- 7mL 2x a week Redsea Reef Energy- A and B 7mL 2x a week Contiuium aquatics -Mg as needed which is lately about 1/2 teaspoon per week (i put it in the top off water and let it drip in) Brightwell Potassium- 1/2 tablespoon at waterchange time (I don't test for this, probably shouldn't dose it) Vodka- 12mL once a day. In the past I have tried Iodide, (i would never do Iodine IMO) but found after testing that my feeding regiment and water changes could keep it in acceptable range. I have tried Iron when I was growing the macro alagaes, but almost any dose for that is to much IME after testing the numbers. Even in a planted tank the consumption rate is minimal IME and any dose at all would elevate above natrual sea water. I have been doing a 30g a week water change and rely on that for adding trace elements, even though I know keeping them at proper levels through water change is impossible. Other then Potassium I try not to dose anything I can not test for and, general trace elements fall under this catergory for me. Right now I am doing all of my dosing by hand. I have the daily dosing worked into my morning coffee routine, so it never gets missed. I have some perastalic pumps that I have run in the past, but I have not hooked them back up. Glad you didn't ask what I feed, I woulda had to type this from the freezer One of everything is a pretty good description for me.

The board discussed all of the posts that were deleted, the threads that were closed, and found that the content was in violation of the sites rules, so they were removed. While your opinion is that they were not inflammatory, others disagree. If you you have constructive criticism our BoD has always been open to hearing that, however calling people names, making personal attacks, spreading things that are false as truth, has no benefit to this site and posts that contain such content will be removed. If you find posts or threads on this forum that fall under that category, please report the post and contact one of the BoD so we can take care of it. Joining in the name calling and escalating a bad situation has no purpose. As my lovely 4th grade teacher used to tell us, "Two wrongs do not make a right". If you want the club to move forward, try to be part of the solution.

Welcome to the forum I personally do not own a Nuvo, but I have heard nothing but great things about them from people who do. I think it would be a great tank to start with.

Nice! My security camera DIY never really worked. I might get one for the frag system. Thanks for the link Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can still make multiple quotes with this software. You just have to type the code in. The code is the word quote wrapped in "[ ]" then at the end of the quote, the word quote with a slash /quote , wrapped in the same " [ ] " I'm glad, I was wondering if anyone was using it. That is very odd. What part is lagging for you in typing the response? That part has not affected me at all. The site actually runs fine on my computer, it's just not as good on taptalk as it used to be.

Looks like a very happy Nem. Great looking tank as always! I'm loving my T247's. Been runnin them for a lil while now.

We are looking at another software update, but I do not know if that update will include being able to batch delete PM's. As for now to delete the PM's from my experience thus far you would have to go through them individually. Sorry wish I had a different answer for you. A couple other members were in the same boat as well and had to spend the time. Not fun at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depending on placement you can also look at securing the cord. If it comes loose and falls a couple inches it might still suck, but not suck quite as bad as if it falls all the way into the tank. I had that little red arm break on a korallia a fee years back and ended up with a small sand storm just below the pump, thanks to a piece of tape on the cord. Glad things are doing good, healthy corals are pretty resilent Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Super Generous! So nice of you to do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really? I never knew they could do that. I have never had more then one in a system. Do the splits contain and grow both colors as well?

Sucks on the two that got blended. Very interesting observation though. It's funny the certain triggers that can cause a nem to move. I have some extra heaters if your ever around O.C. that I could give ya if needed. I'm surprised you don't have a line of 400wers with your tanks and those temps. I'm also kinda surprised you ever leave your garage with those babies and all the zoa's. I'd attach a magnifying glass to my face and live out there.

How much are you feeding the tank daily? Do you have numbers for your Alk, Ca, Mg, and pH now? I'm assuming your ammonia and nitrite are zero and your nitrates are under 10ppm? How large of water change? Are you using RODI water? Have you tested the numbers of your new source water (I just found a bactch of salt I am using had an Alk of 6 so that was a problem that I had) Generally cyano has a root cause. But fixing the root cause does not always remove the cyano. Cyano is one of the older bacterias in the world. It has the capability of doubling itself in a 20 minute period, which means if you pull out 99% of it, your ahead 3 hours, because it can catch up that quickly. There are ways to treat cyano, the two common methods involve a treatment that utalizes eurothromycin commonly sold in stores as chemi clean in the hobby. The other is to turn the lights off of the tank completely for 3 days as this amount of time without light will completely kill cyano. In most cases I recommend the second of the two as a healthy tank can easily go through a 3 day dark period and come out just fine. You however do not have a healthy tank so the chemical treatment might be your better option. The amount of fish in a tank (unless it is to few) is not going to bother SPS. The amount of food and unremoved waste are the problems. If you are able to feed less often or even the same amount but broken up to several times a day, it might help you out as well. When you say waterflow is generally strong, I am not sure how that translates as it is a relative term. I have a tank that turnsover 120x an hour, I consider it strong. It's on a wavemaker with alternating pumps through the day so the flow varies and nothing sticks in the rocks. Are you upwards of a 100x turnover, are you closer to 30x, 50x? Actual numbers help me to help you so I am not making generalizations. FWIW most people think the flow in my tanks is to high, so you don't need to match it but I'd love to get a better idea so I can try to help you. Can you post a full tank shot so I can see the tank, and where the powerheads are?