pledosophy

Aloha! I've been following on Nano reef. Sounds like your doing well. Good luck with the move. Merry Christmas to you and the fiancé Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy to help out where I can. I love building tanks.

Merry Christmas to you and your families! I expect to see pics of some of these new toys. I got a new toy myself but will be posting pics from it, not of it soon. (Hint hint) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our software limits the time period people have to edit their own posts. So after that window expires the button disappears. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So Nice. Thank you!

A 1" drain can do a little under 600 gph. So if you have two 1" drains you'd be about 1200 gph through your primary drains. That would get you up to just under 6x tank volume through the sump. Without using your emergency drains. If you wanted to go up to 10x tank volume through the sump you'd be using all 4 drains. At that time it would only take one of the drain lines becoming clogged before you had water on the floor. If you don't wanna do baffles you could do a reverse float switch on your pump to run it as a kill switch in that event to limit the overflow. If it were my tank I would be worried about the possibility of flood. Not all insurance would cover the damage if you did end up loosing a large amount of watr, it could get pretty expensive. I'm not trying to tell ya what to do, just tryin to help out some from some experiences I have had. Mine wasn't a drain that clogged, it was a bulkhead on the closed loop of my cryptic tank that snapped. But because of my lack of baffles I pumped about 60g of water more then I needed to on the floor. I ended up having to replace the flooring, subflooring, drywall, and getting the vapor barrier on my house repaired. It was much more expensive then one of those little switches would have cost, or even a custom sump with baffles. JME

Daarryl, Happy Birthday! A few people have sent us screenshots etc of what there previous post count has been. If you want to do the same I would be happy to restore it for you. I never did mine as my post count doesn't matter much to me, but if it is important to you I'd be happy to help. Kriz2fer- same to you. Except for the Birthday part, unless I got lucky with that one. Kim- Merry Christmas to you and yours.

If you can't find Rods try LRS, you may just become a convert. I like rods a lot, but LRS is pretty Damm good too, maybe even better Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish I could set that as the default! Thanks!

75! Nice. Can't wait for te build thread. If you wanna try one, I might have an extra laying around. You can have it. Christmas spirit and all.

Well I hate the rockwork.... makes me all jealous and such Seriously though it looks dope. :encouragement: If you lost any of the corals that I have frags of let me know and I'll get the frags back to ya. I know you have a pretty good bank around town, but just sayin. Can't wait for tonights updates.

If the flow through the sump is good but flow in the tank is lacking those Penductors are pretty cool IME. I've run them On all my non seahorse tanks for 10 years or so. The spinning one doesn't work IME but the strait penductors are pretty nifty Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On my 120g I have a Jebao 6000 on the lowest setting. I estimate after head loss and scwd that I get a not less then 3x turnover an hour. I'm pretty happy with it. I could go higher and get to 10x literally with the push of a button, but I like the lower flow through the sump. For water movement in the tank I use 2 WP 40's and a Koralis. If your looking for more movement from the return, you might look into the penductors. I think they are sold as flow accelerators. They attach to your loc line and increase the power of the water movement out of the return. IME I prefer to keep the flow through the sump as low as possible, basically fast enough for the heater to work. JMO Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What size are the drains? Standard 1"?

Arsonmfg makes some nice stuff but I think just for himself. James from Envision is on here and does incredible work. Wannareef makes stuff too as well as Rueben. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is that old school sand John?

I am not sure Pontus, nothing has changed on our end for your account. I did go through and double check all of your settings but they were all right. We had an error a few days ago assigning the banners and a couple people had problems posting after that. Those few people PM'd me and we had them back up and running very shortly. We haven't had any other problems with it over the last few days.

If you are having a problem posting to the forum, please PM me with all the details you can and I will try and fix it for you. If your PM is not working, you can email me at President@PNWMAS.Org Sorry for the inconveniences.

Uh oh, one of the schools in TFT gets water from there. What problems have you had?

Did you get logged out after a time period? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should probably never do that again. I mean, electricty... water... Be safe man. IME it has always been my heater, except one time when it was my light. I got hurt kinda badly the time it was my light. The voltage meters and grounds just aren't that expensive to fool with it. Glad your O.K.

Upscales for sure, and I think Cuttlefish and Corals too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd think about no baffles quite a lot before going that route. The baffles pre pump are a safety device of sorts so that in the event of a clogged drain or something of that nature your return pump only pumps a few gallons of water into the tank for it to overflow, not an entire 75g. A few gallons you clean up with a towel. 75g you remove your flooring, subflooring, likely your drywall, and then deal with cleaning your crawlspace for moisture as well... assuming oyur on the first floor... I would do something to avoid this problem, with the least of that being to raise the pump intake to a higher level. If you do the 10g refugium idea and have it drain back to the socks your going to stop the pods from getting into the display. You could do a more traditional refugium and get extra water polishing if you put a sponge inbetween your baffles and your return pump. Just an idea.

I might be missing something, why do you guys want to bleach them at all? I rinse em out with the hose, let um dry, and then use them. I have never put them in my washer or anything like that. I just turn them inside out and spray them with the hose, keep them outside until they dry. Doesn't even take a minute to spray them. Is there a benefit to bleaching them that I don't know about? Not at all. When I use filter socks I use more then one in my rotation. So when by the time I switch them out the chlorine has completely evaporated.

Are you on the mobile version? Are you using a browser or a forum reader like Taptalk?