Higher Thinking Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 Dang! Already been two and a half months since I posted anything. Guess I'll take advantage of the holiday to provide some updates. The biggest change has been with lighting. Up until a few weeks ago I was still only using 3 Radions, which was what I had over the previous 180 gal. I knew I had to increase lighting, but I didn't know which way to go. More Radions? Metal halide? Reefi? I was initially planning on getting a couple Reefi from Daniel, but ended up going with Radions. I needed 6 lights and I finally decided I didn't want to have mixed lights. So the cheapest, most reasonable thing was to just get 3 more Radions. Jeff helped me get a couple G4 Pros and I paid 500 bucks to Ecotech to replace a broken Gen 3 to a brand new Gen 4 Pro and now I have my 6 lights, all synchronized and beautiful. I kept the same floating canopy as before, but I had to replace the bottom portion to accommodate the additional lights. So basically I popped out the bottom portion and replaced that with another sheet of plywood. I then measured, re-measured, and re-measured again, before cutting out the light slots. Once that was done, I sanded the inside edges, and spray painted the whole thing. I used another board to spray paint on top of, but clearly the other board was not large enough. Now I've got this beautiful lawn decoration until spring. 😧😧 Luckily it's lightened up a bit over the last couple weeks. Once I got the canopy hung again, I had to work on the actually lights, cords, and mounting solutions. 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 I ended up using some foam pipe insulation to place around the edges of the light openings. Previously I had just cut the slots to perfectly fit the light in them, but it was always unpleasant having to shove the lights into the wood, squeezing the frame of the unit. Even then, the lights wouldn't always stay completely level. To remedy this, I now have the lights sitting on top of the foam insulation where they aren't being squeezed and they remain completely level. I also did something else new this go around. I managed to store the drivers and cords all within the canopy so the only thing you see is one cord going to the surge protector, rather than 6 cords coming down. Because the thought of one of these units falling into the water is terrifying, I actually strung a metal cable through all of them so they can never fall if the canopy got bumped or something. Overall everything turned out just as desired. I'm not totally sold on the look of the foam insulation from beneath, but I don't really notice it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 The bad news is the last week or so I've started battling either dinos or a rebirth of diatoms. If it's the latter, I'm not too worried. The former? Ugh[emoji32][emoji27][emoji33][emoji79]It all sprang right up after adding the extra lights so clearly I sent the tank into a bit of a whirlwind from a quick doubling of light intensity. It took over some serious real estate in a very short amount of time. Probably should have started the lights with the acclimate setting, but what can ya do now? I've done a couple water changes and sucked everything out, reduced photoperiod, and light intensity. It does seem to be slowing down significantly but it's way too early to know which direction it's headed. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 I cleaned up all the extra cords from the circulation pumps as well. I rolled them up and hung them on the plumbing behind the tank. So now there is only one cord that goes from the wall that's visible.I still need to replace that final little piece of laminate flooring. Someday, I guess. I also need to paint the old white PVC below where I started with the black PVC. Once it's all black, it'll look better. I might even swap surge protectors so it's a black cord down below and not that white one, but that's getting a little nitpicky, I'll admit. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obrien.david.j Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Congrats on the light expansion. I get your paranoia about lights falling into the tank, and about keeping them perfectly level. If you ever feel the need to modify the mount system, what I did might work well as an option. I used 2" aluminum bar stock from home depot (~1/8" thick). Cut it and ran it the length of my lights. Drilled and countersunk holes, and matched them to the G4 mounting holes. They stick out beyond the ends of the lights. In my case, I'm using them as sliding mounting rails so the lights are movable when working on the tank. But the exact bar idea could work for you. Maybe run it the Short distance of the light, rather than the long distance I did. (And that wouldn't cover the power buttons either. Mine are covered, it's okay with me) Here's some picts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obrien.david.j Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 And as a fellow K2R user, I'll share my maint for today. Refilling my reactor. Switched from ARM to Reborn for the first time, let's see how it does. Records show the last time I refilled this reactor was July. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 Congrats on the light expansion. I get your paranoia about lights falling into the tank, and about keeping them perfectly level. If you ever feel the need to modify the mount system, what I did might work well as an option. I used 2" aluminum bar stock from home depot (~1/8" thick). Cut it and ran it the length of my lights. Drilled and countersunk holes, and matched them to the G4 mounting holes. They stick out beyond the ends of the lights. In my case, I'm using them as sliding mounting rails so the lights are movable when working on the tank. But the exact bar idea could work for you. Maybe run it the Short distance of the light, rather than the long distance I did. (And that wouldn't cover the power buttons either. Mine are covered, it's okay with me) Here's some picts. And as a fellow K2R user, I'll share my maint for today. Refilling my reactor. Switched from ARM to Reborn for the first time, let's see how it does. Records show the last time I refilled this reactor was July. Thanks for the feedback. That's a solid mounting solution for sure. With the cable, all my lights should be real secure now. The biggest hindrance will be when and if I need to remove a light. Since it's one solid cable, I'll have to unthread all the way to the desired light. Even then, it'll only take 5 minutes. Good luck with the Reborn. I use ARM, myself. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertareef Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 23 hours ago, Higher Thinking said: Because the thought of one of these units falling into the water is terrifying, I actually strung a metal cable through all of them so they can never fall if the canopy got bumped I saw that cable and wondered if this might be the reason. Have to be prepared for the random fish attack! Always like the "floating" canopy idea and this version is even cleaner with the single cord and all the power supplies included. Nice solution! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InLikeFlynn Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 (edited) Wow, looks great. I'm saving a few pics of your tank for inspiration. I love how even though its big, with the steel stand, it looks like it is floating there on the bare steel stand with remote sump. I'm thinking about starting a tank in this size range, but still locked in negotiations with the wife. If I get approval, I think she sorta wants it to look like nice furniture on a quality wood stand, but I think your tank looks less intrusive in the room with nothing under it! I shall show her these images. Bravo. Looking forward to seeing how your tank grows out. 😀 Just curious, did Custom Aquariums advise if they will honor their "Lifetime" warranty with your setup? I know they do for their wooden stands, but this one looks stronger and more likely to stay level. Edited January 5, 2020 by InLikeFlynn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Wow, looks great. I'm saving a few pics of your tank for inspiration. I love how even though its big, with the steel stand, it looks like it is floating there on the bare steel stand with remote sump. I'm thinking about starting a tank in this size range, but still locked in negotiations with the wife. If I get approval, I think she sorta wants it to look like nice furniture on a quality wood stand, but I think your tank looks less intrusive in the room with nothing under it! I shall show her these images. Bravo. Looking forward to seeing how your tank grows out. [emoji3] Just curious, did Custom Aquariums advise if they will honor their "Lifetime" warranty with your setup? I know they do for their wooden stands, but this one looks stronger and more likely to stay level.Thanks for the comments. From what I have read, they only provide a lifetime warranty when using their stands. Even then, in order to file a claim, the small print says you have to ship it back at your cost and also pay packing and shipping to have a replacement sent to you. But yes, this stand is much sturdier than their "Majestic[emoji2398]" stands. I guess I'm rolling the dice in that regards. I originally planned on skinning the stand with some solid furniture grade panels that would just magnetically affix to the steel, but once everything was set up, I really preferred the open bottom. Lots of stuff to consider once moving into a larger tank, but nothing that's insurmountable....even the favor of the wife. Wishing you luck in that area!Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Blue jaw trigger went for a jump the other morning. Luckily my wife was home and she heard it flopping around on the floor. She was able to grab it and rescue it. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, after she went to work that day, it jumped again... This time it was not rescued [emoji26]Crazy that it jumped twice in the same day. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxmonkeyboy Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Looking good. 900 watts of LED on a 180 gallon. That ought to grow anything! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 Looking good. 900 watts of LED on a 180 gallon. That ought to grow anything! Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkThanks man! Tank is 360 gallons though, but I feel like your point still stands. [emoji16]Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 Some clam growth on the gigas. When I first got it, I don't think I had it getting sufficient lighting. I honestly thought it was going to die because the mantle partially detached from the shell and it was massively gaping. Once I got the lighting situated it has really recovered. Not only has the mantle returned to full extension, but the massive tear that developed in the mantle had completely healed. In the picture you can see the dark shell where the growth was completely halted for a month or so. Since getting it situated, you can clearly see where the shell growth has taken off. It's about ⅓ inch outward growth all around. That's all happened pretty quickly in the last couple months. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 More Gigas growth. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 I also did some more clean up with the sump wiring. Most of the stuff used to be mounted up high, but I've relocated everything down lower. I added an Inkbird Temperature controller. Don't know why I haven't used one before. Cheap and effective. I also swapped out my DCT12000 return pump for a DCT15000. That required a little modification with the plumbing, but nothing major. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 Continued making some progress with the sump. This time I've added a refugium light and a matching overall sump light. I haven't been using the sump's refugium as an actual refugium until now. It's just been a home to a goby and pistol shrimp. Well I got myself some macro from@CuttleFishandCoral and now I'm study going to start growing some macro. I didn't want some cheesy hang on light or something that looks all industrial. So I opted for these lights. They match the sump and carry a little class. I'll be using a regular LED grow bulb for the one over the refugium. The other light will ultimately be a cooler white, but I just used a random bulb I had laying around for this photo. The refugium bulb will be on a timer and the other one will just be a switch that I can use as needed. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 So I've known for quite some time my PAR has been too high. I kept thinking that maybe the coral that were being negatively impact would eventually "catch up" to those PAR levels. A couple weeks ago, I set my Radions to acclimation mode so they would only use 85% of their normal light and then slowly ramp back to 100% of the scheduled intensity. I had only killed one piece and that was my fault by putting it directly underneath the light without any acclimation. Other than that, there was just some noticeable bleaching on a squamosa clam, a couple LPS, and a few Acros. Everything has been growing really well so I didn't really want to alter anything. Well Ben was nice enough to lend me his meter and I redid my PAR calculations with the current setup. Let's just say I am definitely hitting them with some serious light. [emoji38] This is a basic drawing of my setup. 8' X 3' tank with 6 Radions. These PAR readings are all from the very bottom. Those in the middle are as low as the rock work would allow so obviously not all the way in the bottom. The crazy part is that those are the values while I was in the middle of this "acclimation" phase. The lights were currently at 90% scheduled intensity. My game plan is to reduce the intensity by 1% every day or every other day. Probably get it down around 80% of where it was originally at. Like I said, all the clams and SPS are definitely growing, but some are definitely in a paler state than they should be. One of tricolor acros which has had tremendous growth (again, very pale though) is currently sitting under 850 PAR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obrien.david.j Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 14 hours ago, Higher Thinking said: ... One of tricolor acros which has had tremendous growth (again, very pale though) is currently sitting under 850 PAR! So where's the 850 PAR with respect to this diagram? If I understand your post, this diagram is Tops Down view, and as close to the bottom as you could get. Do you have a Front Facing view equiv? I'm trying see the par in your water column, and especially with respect to basic rock, coral, and clam placement? Since we're talking Intensity, especially with Radion's. I've had a question for a long time. I've got 3 Radions over my 4' tank today. I've set overall 70% intensity in the app, but when hovering over the curves I get peak reading of 45% How do I translate this. 70% is overall intensity multiplier 45% is cumulative effect of different LED Colors intensity. (if all colors were at "max", then I should expect a hover of 70%?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 So where's the 850 PAR with respect to this diagram? If I understand your post, this diagram is Tops Down view, and as close to the bottom as you could get. Do you have a Front Facing view equiv? I'm trying see the par in your water column, and especially with respect to basic rock, coral, and clam placement? Since we're talking Intensity, especially with Radion's. I've had a question for a long time. I've got 3 Radions over my 4' tank today. I've set overall 70% intensity in the app, but when hovering over the curves I get peak reading of 45% How do I translate this. 70% is overall intensity multiplier 45% is cumulative effect of different LED Colors intensity. (if all colors were at "max", then I should expect a hover of 70%?) Your interpretation is exactly correct on both accounts. Regarding your Radion intensity, due to all of your colors not being at 100%, your overall intensity is not at 70%. Should you move all colors to 100% the place where you are hovering would read 70%. I'll have to provide some additional insight regarding a front view. That 850 par is located dead center in the second "square" from the left. Directly underneath two units and also pretty high up in the tank. I've attached an little picture. That photo is old though, so it doesn't show exactly as it is. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obrien.david.j Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 850, at the peak - Get it. There's a clam almost at the peak of the right hand side. bet it's getting hammered too. Guess I need to break out a parmeter for mine too. I've GOT the apex model, just never plugged it in. (won at a macna few years ago) Thx for the Intensity confirmation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 850, at the peak - Get it. There's a clam almost at the peak of the right hand side. bet it's getting hammered too. Guess I need to break out a parmeter for mine too. I've GOT the apex model, just never plugged it in. (won at a macna few years ago) Thx for the Intensity confirmation.Yeah that other clam is the Gigas. It's had some serious growth the last few months. It's off center a little from the light as compared to the other side, but it's still at around 600. It's wide open and throwing down some serious shell growth. I imagine the mantle will darken a little bit as I drop the overall intensity about 10% over the next couple weeks. Hopefully the growth will continue. wideThis is 4 months of growth. Notice the thick shell line at about the 1.5 inch mark. That line shows the overall increase. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 The beast continues to grow. I bought a behemoth UV Sterilizer from Jeff@CuttleFishandCoral and finally got it plumbed in. Also got a Simplicity 2100 pump from him to run as the dedicated UV pump. Side note, have y'all seen the dry goods Jeff keeps in stock these days? Neptune Apex equipment, pumps, dry rock, food, carbon, dips, all kinds of stuff! At any rate, I'm waiting for one more piece of the puzzle to arrive before I hit it with power and water. Sterilizer is 110 watts of blast your face off radiation. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rbusta Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Hadn’t seen this thread, looks awesome! just wondering, What’s your plan for the sterilizer? I have a 57w aqua ultraviolet on my 180 and I was considering ditching it. Are you planning on running it 24/7? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuncrestReef Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 What flow rate do you plan to send through the UV? From your photos, it appears the UV will discharge back into the same sump chamber where it draws water. Are you concerned at all about over-exposing beneficial life forms to the UV? I have mine plumbed to draw water from the sump into the UV, then it goes straight to the display tank, so any pods or other good critters make it into the display without excessive harm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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