Higher Thinking Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Doing water changes suck. So does constantly testing and replenishing additives. So whether you go Triton and no water changes or routine water changes, there's always work involved. Or in my case, the work doesn't get done and then there are consequences. Anyway, I really needed to get myself a water changing system that was quick and easy. Maybe one day I'll implement some kind of auto changing system that swaps just a little per day, but for now, this is what I got! It's basically an ability to change 50 gallons of water with nothing more than a switch and a handful of valves. The far right is obviously the 50 gallon containers. Fresh on top, salt on the bottom. The RODI pumps fresh water into the top and there is also a second line that runs under the house and comes up to my sump. I'm going to connect that line to a float valve in my ATO container. That way I have an always full ATO and an always full 50 gallon container. The waste line for the RODI is plumbed to outside the garage. It may look a little complicated, but I'll try and explain it. Basically, depending on the valves I have three main options: I can simply circulate the bottom container for when I add salt. I can pull water from my sump and send that water outside my house and down the downspout. I can pump salt water from the bottom container back into my sump. There is only one PVC line going from the pump to the sump, but it can either send water or pull water. At the sump, I've attached a hose so that I can suck out sediment during a water change. It's currently a ten foot hose, but I'll probably chop it down. I may even hard plumb all the way into the sump, still thinking that through. Unfortunately, the current sump size only allows for 20 gallon change without powering on the return pump, circulating the water, and then changing another 20.... If that makes sense. However, this whole setup is for the future tank and sump upgrade which is currently in the works. Just finished reinforcing my floor so stay tuned for that build thread. Still a few months out on that. There's a few things I would have done different as far as valve placement, but nothing of any real consequence. Anyway, just knocked out my first water change. The most difficult part was how fast it drained and filled up. I felt like I was running into the garage real quick. I think I'll get the timing down though. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetVet Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 The only critic is to use one-way safety valve at the outlet of your RODI barrel. I learned the hard way when an employee had both tanks opened and it flood the fresh water with salt mix. Didn’t know what was happening until Apex told me the Salinity was creeping by the hour. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetVet Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 This is the system at my animal hospital. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetVet Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Colored 1/4 lines are ran through 3/4 PVC in the ceiling and connected to DOS to perform auto water changes. Thought it would be a time saver-not. Your system looks clean and thought out. At first I thought the PVC was running into the small freezer. That would be a hell of a Chiller. Arctic Phytoplankton system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlpete Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 When I built mine I used shutoff valves at the both ends of the hose as it does fill quick. Also by keeping water in the hose line it allows for keeping your pump primed as you usually start with suction. Once you run out of water in your line you lose suction on the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheClark Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Nice! Some fresh new inspiration there. Love the sump vacuum line, that is gold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Colored 1/4 lines are ran through 3/4 PVC in the ceiling and connected to DOS to perform auto water changes. Thought it would be a time saver-not. Your system looks clean and thought out. At first I thought the PVC was running into the small freezer. That would be a hell of a Chiller. Arctic Phytoplankton system?Thanks for the feedback. You have quite the setup at work. Why wasn't the DOS much of a time saver?Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 When I built mine I used shutoff valves at the both ends of the hose as it does fill quick. Also by keeping water in the hose line it allows for keeping your pump primed as you usually start with suction. Once you run out of water in your line you lose suction on the pump. You're exactly right. I needed to pump water into the sump for a second before sucking it out. The more I ponder it, I'm leaning towards just having the PVC hard plumbed directly over the edge and into the sump. Then I'll use a valve on that end. I'll keep a hose connector end so I can still use attach that periodically and get the vacuum action when necessary, but PVC from end to end is cleaner. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Nice! Some fresh new inspiration there. Love the sump vacuum line, that is gold!Thanks Jeremy. I'm just trying to get as advanced as you are..... Maybe someday. [emoji16][emoji16]Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmas_one Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Now you just need something to mix the salt and water and you’re in business. I’m pretty sure you could do it with a screw conveyor hooked up to your Apex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Now you just need something to mix the salt and water and you’re in business. I’m pretty sure you could do it with a screw conveyor hooked up to your Apex. The salt and water does get mixed in the bottom barrel. The pump pulls from the bottom of the bottom barrel and pumps it to the top of the bottom barrel. The only thing I have to do is dump the actual salt into the barrel. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmas_one Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 10 minutes ago, Higher Thinking said: The salt and water does get mixed in the bottom barrel. The pump pulls from the bottom of the bottom barrel and pumps it to the top of the bottom barrel. The only thing I have to do is dump the actual salt into the barrel. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk I was thinking of having the conductivity/salinity probe tell the Apex to turn on the screw conveyor to put salt in your mix tank for you. That would be legit, making saltwater and water change all automatic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Oh, I got you now! That would be wild for sure! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheClark Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 16 minutes ago, xmas_one said: I was thinking of having the conductivity/salinity probe tell the Apex to turn on the screw conveyor to put salt in your mix tank for you. That would be legit, making saltwater and water change all automatic. That would be so nice! The problem with that is the accuracy of that probe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PowderBlue Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 That’s awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertareef Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Awesome setup Andrew... I have a few projects in mind at my house if you are bored now 😃 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmas_one Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 9 hours ago, TheClark said: That would be so nice! The problem with that is the accuracy of that probe. Laser pointer refractometer? Make a triangular tube sight glass out of acrylic, shoot the pointer through it, monochromatic sensor wired to Apex breakout on the wall across the room in the right spot for 1.026. How’s that for Rube Goldberg, lol. Sorry for the derail Andrew, I can’t help myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 Laser pointer refractometer? Make a triangular tube sight glass out of acrylic, shoot the pointer through it, monochromatic sensor wired to Apex breakout on the wall across the room in the right spot for 1.026. How’s that for Rube Goldberg, lol. Sorry for the derail Andrew, I can’t help myself..Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheClark Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 1 hour ago, xmas_one said: Laser pointer refractometer? Make a triangular tube sight glass out of acrylic, shoot the pointer through it, monochromatic sensor wired to Apex breakout on the wall across the room in the right spot for 1.026. How’s that for Rube Goldberg, lol. Sorry for the derail Andrew, I can’t help myself. That's a great idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuncrestReef Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, xmas_one said: Laser pointer refractometer? Make a triangular tube sight glass out of acrylic, shoot the pointer through it, monochromatic sensor wired to Apex breakout on the wall across the room in the right spot for 1.026. How’s that for Rube Goldberg, lol. Sorry for the derail Andrew, I can’t help myself. I'm working on setting that up: Edited March 20, 2019 by SuncrestReef 4 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milesmiles902 Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, xmas_one said: Laser pointer refractometer? Make a triangular tube sight glass out of acrylic, shoot the pointer through it, monochromatic sensor wired to Apex breakout on the wall across the room in the right spot for 1.026. How’s that for Rube Goldberg, lol. Sorry for the derail Andrew, I can’t help myself. Andrew....if you can build that. You can build this: Just remember to leave space in the garage. p.s. Also, remember to accommodate the index of refraction from the glass container. Plus, refractometers have a measured prism to precisely angle the declination of light from the glass and saltwater. i.e. three prism "like" processes Edited March 20, 2019 by milesmiles902 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlpete Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 The issue I see with auto adding salt is that each container of salt mix has a degree of variance in the salinity levels and varying salinity levels in the water column of the mix tank. When I mix salt I usually make up 160 gallons at a time. Each time the amount I use varies slightly. My mix tank takes about an hour to see a clear mix. I have tested the water column in the tank at different levels to know that it's completely mixed. I have found that as you drop down the column the salinty lowers at the lower level. Even though my water pumps from the bottom of the mix tank up to the top with a pipe that goes to the bottom of the tank with a cap at the bottom. The tank pipe has holes all along it to spray the water and keep movement all along the column. This gives a more complete mix. Each time I add a gallon of salt reducing over time based on salinity. I usually leave it run over night and do a check each day at different levels in the column until I see consistant levels. I would not trust a single probe for this reason. You would want a minimum of three probes to know if the tank is completely mixed. I have even found that the water maybe clear but just a variance of less than foot has different salinity levels. After mixing take sample from the hose and a sample from the bottom and levels are different. With this variance I have seen, I am now thinking I should add a ph testing to see if how long it takes for the ph to stabilize in the water column too. I have seen swings in the ph right after changes on my apex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youcallmenny Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Right on! I just finished my new water making/changing station here last month and I agree that it's a daunting challenge. I really enjoy your gravity fed RO/DI reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 The issue I see with auto adding salt is that each container of salt mix has a degree of variance in the salinity levels and varying salinity levels in the water column of the mix tank. When I mix salt I usually make up 160 gallons at a time. Each time the amount I use varies slightly. My mix tank takes about an hour to see a clear mix. I have tested the water column in the tank at different levels to know that it's completely mixed. I have found that as you drop down the column the salinty lowers at the lower level. Even though my water pumps from the bottom of the mix tank up to the top with a pipe that goes to the bottom of the tank with a cap at the bottom. The tank pipe has holes all along it to spray the water and keep movement all along the column. This gives a more complete mix. Each time I add a gallon of salt reducing over time based on salinity. I usually leave it run over night and do a check each day at different levels in the column until I see consistant levels. I would not trust a single probe for this reason. You would want a minimum of three probes to know if the tank is completely mixed. I have even found that the water maybe clear but just a variance of less than foot has different salinity levels. After mixing take sample from the hose and a sample from the bottom and levels are different. With this variance I have seen, I am now thinking I should add a ph testing to see if how long it takes for the ph to stabilize in the water column too. I have seen swings in the ph right after changes on my apex.That's an interesting note about salinity level variance. How much difference do you see? How tall are your containers? Right on! I just finished my new water making/changing station here last month and I agree that it's a daunting challenge. I really enjoy your gravity fed RO/DI reservoir. Thanks man!Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlpete Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 32 minutes ago, Higher Thinking said: That's an interesting note about salinity level variance. How much difference do you see? How tall are your containers? Thanks man! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk I have seen at the top of the column as high 1.038 but bottom reading at the same time 1.010. The water was clear at the time too. It's about 5 feet tall. 165 gallon water storage tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.