g2theram Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Did you just glue the PVC directly to the the pump. I was afraid to do that, feel like I might have to saw the top off if I ever change my mind Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 He has a union on the pump so it can be unscrewed easily for changes or pump cleaning. It's a good way to do it. . . Robert Musta helped him with that :P Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 I get the union part. It looks like there is still a straight piece of pipe that would be glued directly to the barb? Mostly I'm confused with the direct connection from pump to pipe. The barb and o ring seem like a good idea for a flex tube but not a lot of surface area for the glue to adhere to a straight PVC pipe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Nothing with the pump is glued. Only one side of the union attachments are glued to the central pvc unit. The pump has threads which allow the true union to just screw on. In this shot you can see the unions screwed on top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I get the union part. It looks like there is still a straight piece of pipe that would be glued directly to the barb? Mostly I'm confused with the direct connection from pump to pipe. The barb and o ring seem like a good idea for a flex tube but not a lot of surface area for the glue to adhere to a straight PVC pipe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Okay I understand your question now. Yes there is a piece of the pipe glued to the true Union valve. That's how the true union valve works. There are two pieces that are separately connected to individual items. Then those pieces come together and screw together. So in the picture you can see the setup. There is the gate valve which is screwed onto one end of the true union. The other end of the true union is glued onto the PVC pipe. The bottom of the PVC pipe is glued to one end of the true union valve. Then the union that's glued to the pipe is screwed on to the true union that is screwed on to the pump. If that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Alright I figured it out. My problem is I keep seeing the male barb connection coming off the pump and was trying to figure out how to connect that to the PVC. All along I just needed to remove the barb and then I can install this guy I also got a bag of other goodies that I expect I will need. Since this is my first time trying this I'm sure I forgot something and will need to make a return trip. Now I just need my pump and sump to show up so I can make this all happen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Where do you live? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I'm in east Vancouver Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I can come help ya if you want, your not to far. I've plumbed a few tanks in my day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Thanks for the offer. Once I get my sump and pump in I'm going to try and dry fit it all if things don't add up I'll hit you up on some help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Alright I figured it out. My problem is I keep seeing the male barb connection coming off the pump and was trying to figure out how to connect that to the PVC. All along I just needed to remove the barb and then I can install this guy I also got a bag of other goodies that I expect I will need. Since this is my first time trying this I'm sure I forgot something and will need to make a return trip. Now I just need my pump and sump to show up so I can make this all happen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Please do yourself a HUGE favor. Use a gate valve for your downward flow. I've never used those ball valves for a sump, but from what I've heard, they can be a nightmare. Treat yourself to an extra fifteen bucks and buy a gate valve. Your setup and future adjustments will literally be a snap. If you go the ball valve route, setting and adjusting will prove very difficult. Just my opinion after reading through many posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Please do yourself a HUGE favor. Use a gate valve for your downward flow. I've never used those ball valves for a sump, but from what I've heard, they can be a nightmare. Treat yourself to an extra fifteen bucks and buy a gate valve. Your setup and future adjustments will literally be a snap. If you go the ball valve route, setting and adjusting will prove very difficult. Just my opinion after reading through many posts. I was going to look and see if i can find some. After playing with these ball valves they seem pretty still and i imagine that after a year of use it just gets worse. I wasn't planning on restricting my downward flow at all, is there a reason why you would. The tank that i bought is designed to work best at 700 GPH im not quite sure how Iim going to measure that once i get my pump on. I was thinking i would start at half open and open it up a bit more after timed intervals until i get to a point where i feel the tank is happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 You really got to read up on Herbie or Bean Animal style overflows. They're the main way to go unless you want your tank to sound like a toilet all day with gurgling and flushing water. These two overflow styles make your system dead silent and they require a specific flow (the reason why you would restrict the flow). It's definitely necessary to restrict the flow. From the looks of your setup, you have two holes. In that case, you'll have to run your return over the top unless you want to drill another hole. A Herbie requires two down-spouts and the Bean Animal requires three. Herbies are pretty popular. The way you have it setup now you don't have a safety overflow spout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Right not I have a built in corner weir and a durso set up. Since the intake is below the surface doesn't that cut out the gargle Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Right not I have a built in corner weir and a durso set up. Since the intake is below the surface doesn't that cut out the gargle Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I think it works. I'm not positive on it though, because I haven't checked them out much. When deciding which way I was going to go, my research led me to the two I listed. Whether the durso is silent (which would be great if it was, I just don't know) it still leaves you with no emergency drain. What happens if that clogs? Yikes! If anything I'd run the durso and use the other line as an emergency stand pipe and run the return over the back. I'd be terrified to run only one pipe outta my DT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I think it works. I'm not positive on it though, because I haven't checked them out much. When deciding which way I was going to go, my research led me to the two I listed. Whether the durso is silent (which would be great if it was, I just don't know) it still leaves you with no emergency drain. What happens if that clogs? Yikes! If anything I'd run the durso and use the other line as an emergency stand pipe and run the return over the back. I'd be terrified to run only one pipe outta my DT. Why must you cast such terrible doubt hahaha. That makes really good sense though. I will have to kick the idea around a bit i was wanting all the side to not show plumbing since its visible from all four. perhaps i can run some pumps and my neighbors will just have to deal with the eyesore of seeing some extra plumbing. if i understand the herbie correctly i will need to lower my original intake pipe and take off the top so that it is allowed to take as much water as possble. Then i run that pipe to a valve where i tinker with the opening to match the GPH of the downspout to the return. I want to dial the valve just right so that the water rises to the second return and allows a very small amount of water to enter it as well. The other area that i need to think about is i only have one spot on my sump for a return. on the main return could i have it go bulkhead valve then connect to a Y and on the emergency return just plumb it directly into the Y. Would i heard the gargle of the water at the y junction 3 feet below through my emergency line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bicyclebill Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I love african chiclids! That's what started me in the hobby. Mouth brooders are so amazing to watch. I really likethe Lake Tanganyika fish too. It got out of control for me; three different tanks going to raise all the babies they kept having. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Why must you cast such terrible doubt hahaha. That makes really good sense though. I will have to kick the idea around a bit i was wanting all the side to not show plumbing since its visible from all four. perhaps i can run some pumps and my neighbors will just have to deal with the eyesore of seeing some extra plumbing. if i understand the herbie correctly i will need to lower my original intake pipe and take off the top so that it is allowed to take as much water as possble. Then i run that pipe to a valve where i tinker with the opening to match the GPH of the downspout to the return. I want to dial the valve just right so that the water rises to the second return and allows a very small amount of water to enter it as well. The other area that i need to think about is i only have one spot on my sump for a return. on the main return could i have it go bulkhead valve then connect to a Y and on the emergency return just plumb it directly into the Y. Would i heard the gargle of the water at the y junction 3 feet below through my emergency line? Yes you've got the jist of the herbie. Whether you run the emergency with a slight trickle or just keep the water level in between is personal preference. I ran a poll several months ago and it was about 50/50. Check you tube for some videos of people doing it if you want more insight. I don't think you would want to "y" your main siphon because I don't think it'd siphon correctly. I don't know though. You could just have the emergency dump into the tank. That's how mine is set up. That way when water starts dribbling over the top, I would hear it and know something was up. You can see the emergency pipe hanging down here: As long as the emergency dumps into the sump, it doesn't matter where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 As long as everything goes as planned I should get water in this weekend. Just painted the inside of the stand so that it's more bright when I get the rope lights in I didn't like the idea of seeing white when I opened the door so I kept that part black. I bought some rocks today so that I could create my aquascape Top view Front view Back view Left view The right side of the tank will be viewed the least amount so I'm not as worried how it looks. If I didn't have the wall in the way I'm sure it would look real cool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 With all this rock I know I will have some dead spots in the tank. Is there a coloring agent, food coloring, that I can put into the water to help me see flow that also won't harm my fish and can be removed with some carbon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 With all this rock I know I will have some dead spots in the tank. Is there a coloring agent, food coloring, that I can put into the water to help me see flow that also won't harm my fish and can be removed with some carbon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Rockwork looks great. I love that piece of wood. Not really a coloring agent but you could do it with cyclopleeze. Put in a bunch and watch it blow around. It will show you where things "get stuck" as well. I'd remove the filter media why you do it so it doesn't get filtered out until your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Got my trigger system 20 ruby cube in and set up some lighting for the stand Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2theram Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 In my head before I put all the pieces under my tank I wanted to have put in lots of unions and use 45 degree instead of 90s. As well toss in gate valves on the lines. Well after looking at how tight everything is I think I'm going to have to run my drain with a 90 right at the tank - union - gate valve - 90 - sump. The pump can probably line directly below the return line so I was thinking to try and fit the pump - union - gate valve - Union - tank. The return I'm not so worried about because there won't be any change of direction and I think I can have the unions in a place where I can remove the plumbing if need be. The drain I'm not so sure on. With the room available The only way I can image removing the plumbing later on is to cut it all out and start over. Suggestions are welcomed Also I tossed a Union into the picture to help show scale Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 If you can swing it I would use 45s. The water will tend to stack up in a 90 and slow flow down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Very nice set up! I have a few questions if you don't mind. What equipment will you keep in the sump other than the heater? Will you use filter socks? I have been kicking around the idea of a freshwater tank and am wondering what the benefit is to using a sump with freshwater. Will you be using any pumps in the tank or just rely on flow through the sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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