jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Hey guys, I got a quick question for you, I really dont want to dial my pump back, thats 20 bucks I don't need to spend, I'm already in trouble with the other half as it is. So, should I a) cut the box I have in the tank off, its siliconed in, and put a street elbow in there to help with the flow issue, or should I b) put a gate valve on my pump and see if that helps, cause if it doesn't help, I'll have to do option a anyway. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Ball valve on the output will do the job for cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 you mean on the drain end alex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 no, after the pump in the return. Never on the drain side, too dangerous. Unless you want to swim in your living room :-) What kind of pump are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 I'm running a Mag 9.5 I believe it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 So with magnetic impeller. Perfect for a valve on the output. If you tune it well, probably the overflow will be more silent as well. Post some pics so we can help more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 You can screw the ball valve directly onto the Mag 9.5. Tell the wife in the long run you are saving money as the pump will use less electricity and run cooler. Serious though it's like 5 bucks max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 check my build thread alex, ive got pics up there :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 ok, so getting a razor behind that box is gonna be a BIT complicated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 ok, so I found out the hard way, *()^&*(^ that hurts, that dropping your light strip in the tank is a really really really BADDDDDD idea. so my second attempt at fixing it, extending the drain line under the water line, was a bust. anyone else know how to get a razor blade behind something thats flush against a glass wall without breaking the glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeferscooter Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 a thin guitar string usually works very well. i use them to disassemble glass tanks for rebuilds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 what size reefer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeferscooter Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 I use a high E string since they are the smallest i think i had lights on my guitar before i restrung it. i believe it is was .012 string. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 I will have to see what I can find then, cause I need something to work, I gotta get that thing off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arsonmfg Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 The guitar string is actually a really good idea! I've used them to dismantle tanks before as well and didn't think about that. More than likely you'll break the overflow box before you break the glass. Just take your time and have some patience. Oh yeah, stop electrocuting yourself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Share Posted March 30, 2010 Yeah, I aint doin that one again, tahts for [language filter] sure, my arm is still tingling a lil bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Ok, so the guitar string idea did NOT work, good idea, but, with euro-bracing and having 0 room to get any kind of leverage on the strings, all I did was cut my finger and snap the string. Talked to Steve a bit ago, and decided that what is probably my best shot is a putty knife, the thinnest one I can find. Considered draining the whole set-up and rebuilding my stand in the process, but, nixed that idea because it's just too much work and time involved, not to mention it's liable to upset the gf, and as you all know, upsetting the gf who lets you have a saltwater tank is a bad idea. So, I'll deal with the tightness and chalk it up as a lesson learned. Back to the original question, does anyone else have any ideas for how to get that box off when it is flush with the wall of the tank and [language filter] near flush with the euro-bracing? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef165 Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Screw a 3/4 inch ( i think ) ball valve onto the return pump. If your overflow cant handel the return pump then restrict the flow of the return pump. What skimmer do you have? could ya run it off your return pump aswell? Basicaly instead of using a ball valve ya use your return pump to also run your skimmer and that will reduce the flow back up to the tank, plus it will eliminate one pump saving the elect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.