7Max-GTE Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 I want to plumb my R/O system under my sink. I was planning on having my cold water line T'd to my R/O unit...I am bad with non-pvc plumbing. How would you guys recommend I do this? (I want to have my R/O unit always on, and have my sink work as well. I am putting an auto-shut off system on my R/O unit.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 Would rather do it like ^^^^^, but if not I'll go with http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/ro-plumbing-fittings/reverse-osmosis-valves-and-adaptors/faucet-diverter-valve.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 they have those self tapping clamps for 1/4" at Home depot for hooking up refrigerator water lines, I'm pertty sure they work with the plastic 1/4" also this is the one http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhi/R-100638013/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Hey Max, I can come over Monday after I get off work and hook it up for you. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 I got the saddle clamp if you need it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Actually, mine is a PVC clamp for ro/di. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 I used a compression T and then added a ball valve to it to turn it on and off. We live in an apartment and if we tapped the line, we would have to pay to replace the pipe. The Compression T thing just screwed in and was done. Took me less then 5 minutes, and I know very little about plumbing and I am not handy. JME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefcam Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 I went to HD and bought a replacement sink pipe (between the main water valve and the faucet) with one that is made of polyethylene (or the refridgerator water line type) and use a john-guest compression fitting to tap off the water line. As for your drain line, you will need to tap into the sink drain line and that's easily replaceable too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Yeah, I got the sink waste tap/saddle. Price free. I had to do a different kind of tap into my AC drain in the garage and had this left over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 Franklin- Any chance you would be willing to swing by and help me set it up? I am REALLY bad with metal plumbing. I could pay you for the pump also. Bryan- I appreciate it, if Franklin can't come over, I'd love your help. I just owe him anyways :] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 Actually now that I look at it, I have 2 valves connected to the wall, for hot and cold, and each one connects directly to a braided line going up to my faucet. For my drain, it goes directly to my garbage disposal, and then into a 1" ABS pipe, then opens up into a 1.5" U trap thingy, then goes into the wall. That is why I wanted to make a T from the valve to the braided line, probably with a ball valve. Unless thats what someone already said, in which case I need to work on my reading comprehension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 OH now I get it. I will use the compression T / Ball valve for the line TO the R/O unit, and then the saddle tap thingy to tap the drain line. GOT IT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Give me a ring if you need advice, applause, etc.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 Well I got it all plumbed properly, I just can't tell which line is waste water and which is R/O. I am pretty sure waste water is the one that is flowing a lot of water, and the R/O is the stuff that is just barely dripping. I need to switch the lines if thats the case, then it works properly. Now all I need to do is change the resin/filters and I am good to go! Thank you all for the suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Very good, Max! Yep, the rejected water flows higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Re: Plumbing Help! Good job figuring it out Max. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Thanks. I am normally really good with PVC plumbing, but anything metal/tapped into my home water supply scares the crap out of me. By the way Bryan, next time you're in Aqua Serene, ask for me :] I am usually outside playing with the koi or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Congrats on the job, Max! The last time I was at Aqua Serene they had a Pavona maldivensis at a MUCH lower price than I paid for mine. Now if I could just get that big red cap in the display tank I'd be a happy camper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 Isn't that red cap amazing? :] I'll see if I can pull some strings... hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 Also, I figured out why my R/O system was flowing so much out the waste water line, and so little out the clean water line. The problem was that when I switched the waste and clean lines, I didnt know there was an inline flow restrictor installed! Now it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undrtkr_00 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 One thought for you. You said you were setting it up to an auto shutoff. If this is for an auto topoff for your tank, you may want to reconsider. Generally when the RO/DI unit starts up, it has some high TDS in the product water for a couple of seconds. If you're filling a big bucket, it's no big deal. If you're just pumping a few cups at a time, it means your topoff water isn't all that clean. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Max-GTE Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Doing an auto shut off system to fill my 10g salt mix tank, then I will build an auto top off system for my freshwater top off (5 gallon bucket with R/O water), that is separate from my R/O unit. Thanks though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undrtkr_00 Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 I figured you probably had it covered, but wanted to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye Field Supply Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Especially in cases where folks don't want to make permanant changes to the plumbing - these are easy and quick to install: We try to encourage people to use a method other than those self-piercing needle valves. Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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