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RO/DI Unit


pantherguy30

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I would like some opinions on what brands you like/dislike. It seems there are a ton of options out there and I can't seem to decide on a brand. Main concern would be useable water to waste created. I'm looking for a model that produces about 90 gallons per day. Definatly would like a model that has a membrane flush valve. And are there any pro's con's to hard plumbing over the garden hose? (scratch)

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I have the Air, Water, and Ice and Pure Water Club RO/DI units. Have also dismantled other units to put them together. RO/DI units are all built the same. The only difference are their features, such as clear canister vs. white, type of hook up available. Personally, if you are comfortable with working on the unit, then I would just get a cheap unit that meets your needs (i.. 90 gpd) and you can upgrade from there.

 

I just upgraded all my units to 150 gpd and now get about 600 gpd together. Granted, I'm not getting that much, but it can fill my 30 gal can in 1.5 hours. :)

 

A flush can be easily built with parts from Home Depot. It's basically a by-pass that allows the waste water to go around the flow restrictor.

 

Hard plumb vs. Garden hose... depending on your needs and how much water lose you get from your Garden hose. If you have more than 45 PSI at your garden hose, you are good. If you need to move the unit around, then garden hose.. if not, then hard plumb it. I have mine hard plumb to my pipes under the bathroom sink.

 

HTH

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the basic plastic components are almost always the same. some filters will be to different microns, and somtimes types of carbon can be a little different. some are hi silica vs std de-i silica. an excellent cheap r.o system can be found at buck eye field supply, its a well know web page on r.c. that sells all the components we use to make our diy 2 part program and own balanced mag supplements. by far the cheapest r.o. systems ive ever seen!! be sure to look at the reef ready ones..... they have the better de-i, carbon, and micron filters. brand ones will cost 30-50% higher. i bought a kent r.o. 10 yrs ago but get my refills from buckeye and sometimes bulk reef supply if buckeye is out. they also have the floats, flush kits, and storage tank for home use as well.

hope this helps

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have this unit as well as have seen many threads on (reef central Reef2reef) on people using this guys stuff-so feedback is out there.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/0PPM-Portable-50GPD-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-DI-Water-Filter_W0QQitemZ380208220751QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item58862d0a4f

 

I have rotten water pressure so I had to add the booster pump, but I push the water over 100 feet up through the attic into the garage were my res. is I built.

I have dual TDS meter hooked up and the output is 0ppm as advertised, and I'm on the same membranes, resin etc, 8 months into it. Its hooked up to the sink in the laundry room, and does have waste water, probably a 1:1 ratio, you can always plumb it where you save the waste water and do what ever with it.

I cant justify spending 100+ dollars on something that I would get the exact same results -IMO

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  • 2 months later...

Some things to look for in a good system for this hobby:

 

Standard-sized prefilters, membrane, and DI cartridge

Brand name, high-rejection membrane

Specifications provided for each stage

Pressure gauge after the prefilters and before the membrane

Thermometer

DI bypass

Vertical DI stage

Refillable DI cartridge

Aluminum bracket

Quick connect fittings

Flush valve

Clear housings

High-quality instructions

Customer support before, during, and after your purchase

A vendor involved in your hobby

 

Russ

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the basic plastic components are almost always the same.

 

We hear this a lot, and have to respectfully disagree. Many of the components look similar, but over the last 10 years of building these systems - there is a fair amount of difference if you know what you are looking for.

 

For example - we can get chear RO membrane housings than we do, but they tend to develop internal cracks.

 

We can get cheaper filter housings, but they to have a tendancy to crack.

 

We use rivets for instance in some places where we could use a sheet metal screw instead - this would be a distinction that is probably meaningless to you untill you catch a knuckle on one of those exposed screws.

 

We could use cheaper fittings - they look similar - but the quality is lower and they tend to leak and the valves break.

 

We could use steel brackets - they look similar, and are less expensive for use to buy - but they will rust.

 

We could screw our pressure gauges into the tail end of the RO membrane housing, but you won't get an accurate reading that way.

 

The list goes on... Bottom line - the "skeletons" of these systems often look similar, but that doesn't always equate to similar quality.

 

Russ

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