fpd4308 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I finally got tired of battling nitrates and got rid of my canister filter. Disconnected it tonight. I figure with the live rock the sump and the fug. I should have plenty of natural filtration. First time I have had a tank set up without a canister so I am a little nervous but we will see how it goes. (scary) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsoz Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I just got finished reading 29 pages of "sugar dosing" on ReefCentral. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=898931&perpage=25&pagenumber=29 I did this a while back to combat phosphate, but it also works for nitrate. As long as you have a good skimmer, and you go slow. It is worth a try. dsoz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpd4308 Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Thank you. I will check that out. I have been hearing a lot about it lately but didn't have the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsoz Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 There is a lot of BS and bickering in the first few pages. If I wanted to save some time, I would skip pages 2-6 (or more). The real results are in the last 10 pages or so. Brief summary: 1/4 tsp (teaspoon- the smaller one if you don't cook) per 25g of WATER every couple of days to start out. Then gradually increase it to 1/4 tsp per day per 25g. If that does not lower nitrates, slowly increase it until it starts lowering them slowly, then keep that dose until they are almost gone, then start lowering the dose. If you start out too fast you will get a bacterial bloom and it will use up all the oxygen in your water. Some/most of your stuff will die. There are a few threads on this site that also talk about sugar/vodka dosing as well. dsoz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpd4308 Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Thanks for the summary. I got to about page 5 and started getting bored. (laugh) Same arguments back and forth. I think I will let my tank settle, after removing the canister filter and maybe give this a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefboy Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 What size tank do you have? and whats the fish ratio to corals and what if any skimmer are you running? there alot of varibles before I'd start dosing a experimental cure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benny503 Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 Kevin (plecoxxxx) in Tigard advices a lot of our board members to use sugar to fight phosphate, I listen to him. For months now and it seem like working really good. I have been Starsbucks sugar for my tank (naughty) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpd4308 Posted May 9, 2009 Author Share Posted May 9, 2009 Ya, I think I will hold off at this point. I seem to have gotten it under control the old fashion way with a couple of water changes and by removing that canister filter (Nitrate farm). What size tank do you have? and whats the fish ratio to corals and what if any skimmer are you running? there alot of varibles before I'd start dosing a experimental cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 If you come from freshwater it is really hard to give up the canister. I know I had a hard time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 I still consider it even years after FW. Can't decide wether or not I wanna do it. Still haven't done it though. What media's were you running in what cannister? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpd4308 Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 I still consider it even years after FW. Can't decide wether or not I wanna do it. Still haven't done it though. What media's were you running in what cannister? I had a Fluval 305, with the multiple spots for media so I was running a water polishing pad, Biomax (basically ceramic bio media) and carbon. It was nice to have my water clear up so quick after a wc but overall I am glad its gone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I have always had good experiences with the XP3 and was considering running one for carbon, live rock rubble, and then the foam to collect debri before entering chamber in back of my tank for skimmer and UV sterilizer. But I have no desire to start experiencing the nitrate issues again. However the XP3, which I assume the fluval is too, is very easy to clean and maintain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpd4308 Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 They are pretty easy to clean especially compared to the Magnum 350's I used to have. If I were gonna run a canister again that sounds like a pretty good setup your talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 See, that is why I am stuck trying to figure out what to do. I have also considered running refugium mud in a section of the canister but worry about things getting clogged in impeler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 See' date=' that is why I am stuck trying to figure out what to do. I have also considered running refugium mud in a section of the canister but worry about things getting clogged in impeler.[/quote'] Quit trying to get every square in ot that tank covered!!!!!!!(nono)!!!!! Let it "breath" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefboy Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 OK this is my OP so no flaming lol but I think canisters should be use for mechanical filtration only meaning cleaned every week or bi weekly in saltwater reef systems they aren't efficient enough to be good biological filters and turn into nutrient sinks very quickly I have even seen systems with algae problems get better after removing them so proof's in the pudding for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 If Your going to use phosban and charcoal that's fine Don't try and use it for any boi development. No sponges, ceramic rock.... You will disrupt the bio of the tank as it try's to get established. Then your removing it, throwing off the existing putting a strain on it.Setting your self up for more problems. ALWAYS use tank water (like when your doing a change) to clean with. Even the plastic tray in the Fluval will develop live bacteria. If you use tap water your going to put dead bacteria back into the system. See the problem yet???? Too many "fixes" is not the answer. Each tank has it's own internal cycle and system load. Our tanks are in a constant state of cycle and always will be. The best is to leave most things alone. If your constantly trying to change things the tank just gets confused. This week where going to attack the nitrates phosphate's with pads, chemicals what have you. Your actually taking and messing with the tank perims. Remove the pads and suddenly the bacteria are overloaded again. They multiply trying to do there job, over production. Then just as fast start dying off, multiplying again. Get the picture. There is a limit to how much stock, corals and fish. Type of corals and fish Any given size tank can take. Zoa's and other types of corals naturally release toxins into the system when there put into a different tank. Another word is slimming. This is natural of them. It requires the system to "re-adapt" to the change. Now adding several colonies at one time, or even within days is a huge NO NO especially in the smaller systems. People have been successful doing it but in lager systems. Still not always a good thing. I really hope you all take this construct fully. In this hobby we all love, patience isn't just a virtue. It is absolutely necessary. I think sadly it is being forgotten. I really don't want to hear of a crash for any reason, but I really feal some are headed that way if not more careful. This is my opinion. It is not directed any one person. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 If Your going to use phosban and charcoal that's fine Don't try and use it for any boi development. No sponges, ceramic rock.... You will disrupt the bio of the tank as it try's to get established. Then your removing it, throwing off the existing putting a strain on it.Setting your self up for more problems. ALWAYS use tank water (like when your doing a change) to clean with. Even the plastic tray in the Fluval will develop live bacteria. If you use tap water your going to put dead bacteria back into the system. See the problem yet???? Too many "fixes" is not the answer. Each tank has it's own internal cycle and system load. Our tanks are in a constant state of cycle and always will be. The best is to leave most things alone. If your constantly trying to change things the tank just gets confused. This week where going to attack the nitrates phosphate's with pads, chemicals what have you. Your actually taking and messing with the tank perims. Remove the pads and suddenly the bacteria are overloaded again. They multiply trying to do there job, over production. Then just as fast start dying off, multiplying again. Get the picture. There is a limit to how much stock, corals and fish. Type of corals and fish Any given size tank can take. Zoa's and other types of corals naturally release toxins into the system when there put into a different tank. Another word is slimming. This is natural of them. It requires the system to "re-adapt" to the change. Now adding several colonies at one time, or even within days is a huge NO NO especially in the smaller systems. People have been successful doing it but in lager systems. Still not always a good thing. I really hope you all take this construct fully. In this hobby we all love, patience isn't just a virtue. It is absolutely necessary. I think sadly it is being forgotten. I really don't want to hear of a crash for any reason, but I really feal some are headed that way if not more careful. This is my opinion. It is not directed any one person. Uh oh....So maybe I should slow down on additions and such. CCR, as always thank you for the inputl. Your input is never taken personally, except when you direct it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 IME the only thing a canister is good for is a prefilter for a larger UV. Yes you can run many chemicals through them, but honestly I don't use any of them anyways. I do use sugar to remove nitrates. It is a very easy thing to do. Once you get the balance down, it's not so hard. I got so tired of cleaning the canister filters I removed them on everything but my fry tanks, since I am no longer working with fry my life is so much easier. JME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.